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Any plan to increase the dimensions the 3d map can be generated for? This would be fun for motorcycle ADV trips but we tend to exceed the 100km squared limit.


The limit was set in place to prevent the browser from crashing in low-end devices, as the full model is loaded and displayed as a single entity in full detail (in contrast Google Earth etc. uses multiple level of details, depending on the viewing distance).

Server side there's no problem to increase the model size, maybe I can add this as an option.


Perhaps you could simplify the terrain data at lower zoom? That's what we've done with route style geocorridor POIs to avoid thousands of points.

https://postgis.net/docs/ST_Simplify.html


Could they unionize?


Yeah in emacs with paredit/smartparens/parinfer or whatever, it is both text and structure. With parinfer you change the text and the structure gets modified to match. With the other two you can change the structure directly with a command that has a silly but descriptive name like slurp or barf.


Feynman Lectures on Physics books. It might just be the right timing for me as I've only recently really started to grasp calculus and linear algebra, but a lot of things are clicking into place as I read.


I want to earn enough money to never (have to) work again, so I can lay in the garden and read all his lectures


"A life of ease is a difficult pursuit."

-- William Cowper


one day im gonna read them. iv read "excuse me, Mr Feynman" aproximately 5 times and its one of my favourite books ever.


An interesting watch on Richard Feynman: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=42276170

Turns out he never wrote any books in his life, so merry Christmas everyone, you’ve all read all books written by Feynman. The video puts a pretty convincing argument that most of the stories about him are made up dinner-table entertainment and didn’t happen.


Angela Collier, who made that video, if full of it.


Nope.


Yuo. Collier claims Robert Leighton wrote The Feynman Lectures on Physics, but all he did was edit Feynman's lectures in Volume I, as she (or you) could ascertain by listening to the lecture recordings and reading along with the text, both of which are available online (free) at The Feynman Lectures Website, https://www.feynmanlectures.caltech.edu. Collier completely fails to mention Matthew Sands who edited Volumes II and III. So Collier is full of it. And not only with regard to FLP. She claims, for example, that Feynman's stories in Surely You're Joking Mr. Feynman and What Do You Care What Other People Think are lies which is itself a lie (for which she offers no proof - because there is none) and that Ralph Leighton, who edited those books, by admiring Feynman as a physicist, was intentionally insulting his father Robert Leighton, which is complete bullsh*t, as I can tell you for a fact because I know them personally. Collier, in fact, defames Feynman and Leighton, not only in this video, but in others, and that is to attract views from ignoramuses, through hate-mongering. Let me mention also that Collier is just some poorly paid junior postdoc who makes money from her YouTube videos. And let me also mention that Feynman is greatly admired, as a physcist, a teacher, and as a human being, by millions of people, including many great physicists, physics teachers, and physics students. Finally, in closing I will mention that Feynman's books, including his autographical books (edited by Ralph Leighton) and The Feynman Lectures on Physics (edited by Robert Leighton and Matthew Sands) are best sellers, have been for a long time, and will continue to be, despite hate-mongering YouTubers like Collier, and the idiots who parrot them.


If you watch the video she explicitly says that the Feynman lectures were written by Feynman, the actual lectures, but were edited into book form by the other guy. She says exactly that, so she is not lying about that.

Your other claims that she is lying are backed up with as little factual information as her assertions, but having read about the man i would seriously consider that a great many of his stories are seriously exaggerated for effect. Again, she states that stories about the challenger hearings and his wife and various other occurrences for which we have evidence are completely factual. But it is rather obvious, dick being a rather hammy storyteller, that many fun details in his stories could have been tweaked to make them fun, and are kinda strange when you imagine what the other side of the conversation must've been like.

I don't blame you if you did not watch the video because it was long, but i will blame you for lying in this chat. I understand, i worshiped Feynman for a very long time but we have to understand that the man is not the legend.


I agree, Collier's videos are usually light on facts and nuance and seem to stroke the rage of her viewers. There are many who knew Feynman as a person, attended his lectures, etc. who are still alive today and could have been consulted if she were serious about her journalism.


You might like Infinite Powers (Steven Strogatz) and Faraday, Maxwell, and The Electromagnetic Field (Nancy Forbes)


Depends on where you live, in New England the salted winter roads tend to win and few cars last more than 10 years before there are holes in body panels.


The body panels are more and more often plastic or aluminum these days. There's still often steel in the suspension and subframe, though.

The point of the article, though, is lots of people still spread FUD a out EV batteries and the data we have shows that batteries are not a problem. They last longer than transmissions and engines on average.


I've noticed so many "common knowledge" things being anchored into the past, especially as I age - and especially for vehicles.

The "rotting frames and body panels" thing was certainly common where I'm from when I grew up, but these days it's very normal to see 20+ year cars on the road with very little salt related damage. I have a 2007 Acura MDX that is stored outside for the past 8 years, never washed by my parents who I gifted it to, and driven through some of the worst winter road conditions possible. Visiting in the winter you'd think it was a grey vehicle (it's black) from all the salt spray adhered to it which stays on until it's driven in the rain come springtime.

It shows utterly zero frame or body rust even today. I expect the rubber seals and such to fail before anything else. This is pretty much the norm.

Cars are not made like they were in the 1980's and 90's any more. The coatings and type of materials are vastly different and improved. There are certainly models out there that have problems and you can get unlucky, but it's no longer a rule of thumb.

It's not just vehicles though. It's pretty much endemic to all things. People get anchored to their "formative years" and then never update their priors. I assume it takes a generation or two for such things to die off and the "common knowledge" to be updated. EV battery tech will be one of these things - we will be anchored to the common tropes that were true for first and second generation vehicles but no longer are for quite a long time.


On the other hand, I drove my 2009 Toyota Corolla in upstate NY for 10 years until the exhaust system literally fell out of it on the highway.

There was very little visible rust on the body.

(To be clear, if I didn't need more space inside nowadays I would absolutely be delighted to get another Corolla; I think it's a trooper for making it 10 years in this weather. I also replaced the exhaust system and then sold the car for significantly more than the repair cost to someone who wasn't planning on keeping it in quite a snowy climate.)


Many modern vehicles experience galvanic corrosion at dissimilar metal junction points at accelerated rates in the presence of salt.


A bigger issue I'm seeing is ordinary corrosion at metal-plastic interfaces where the magic coatings which keep the rust at bay get worn through due to vibration and dissimilar thermal coefficients. Another such problem sometimes occur when windows are not mounted with enough of a gap between the glass and the surrounding metal, again leading to the coating being worn through due to vibration and such. Look for the former problem at wheel wells, the latter at the bottom edge of rear windows.


It persists because incompetently-managed cities and their sycophants need a convenient scapegoat for why they can't properly clean roads in the winter.


While I suspect you’re right about newer cars because of galvanized steel etc, but I also wonder how much of the contrarian viewpoint is due to sampling bias. Maybe your Acura was just good luck? I’ve had a domestic wagon of similar vintage that went through many Midwest winters. The exhaust rusted off and so did the sub-frame leading me to offload it many years ago. We really need better data than our personal anecdotes to understand the problem.


Definitely need more than anecdote. Exhaust system though is a wear item, I'd expect to replace that every decade or so.

Sub-frame, not so much!

A quick google shows graphs for "Average age of the US used car fleet" to be around 6 years in 1975, and increasing to 12 years today. Not enough time today before family arrives to really dig further though.


Very true, and car longevity has been steadily increasing. Although, I don’t think the bulk of them failures are attributable to “rotting body panels”. I remember when a car with 100k miles was considered essentially dead, whereas more drive trains routinely last twice that long.


Ah this might be an in-industry definitions thing[1], I was taught most anything thin, especially the pieces that are welded to the unibody, are panels. Not just the outer skin. So floor pan, pillars, trunk panels, roof, subframe, maybe control arms, etc are all panels. Basically anything stamped out of sheet metal. It is the way they're often constructed that leads to corrosion, thin pieces of metal in close parallel proximity are especially hard to clean. Think two flat pieces spot welded together one on top of one another as many seams are. I'm sure capillary action doesn't help those either. They'd have to be sealed in paint or epoxy entirely to avoid the seam corroding. Welding itself changes the structure of the steel and leads to corrosion near the weld. If not spot welded, a different steel might be used for the weld that has higher strength to compensate for welds weakening the steel - but to get that they trade-off higher carbon content, making it more prone to corrosion.

There are very few all-aluminum cars. Audi A8 was for a while and might still be. I am not aware of anything cheaper.

[1] https://automotivedictionary.org/dictionary-of-automotive-te...


Not lasting forever but car bodies are fully submersed during the painting process and should seal many of the areas you mentioned for a good time.


You're right that there's more parts that don't rust on modern vehicles. However, newer vehicles tend to be unibody compared to the older body-on-frame. When it comes to salty corrosion, parts sandwiched together often create places for the saltwater to be trapped, making the problem worse.

The more I look at newer cars, the more I tend to believe that they will last exactly as long as the warranty, then disintegrate into repair hell.


My theory here is that in the past many things have been over engineered or designed. Now all this fat is being optimized out and the weak spots are showing. But there is still a delay between the engineering change and the weak spots emerging.


The nostalgia based belief that "things were better before" is generally not supported by the facts. Cars in the past were much less reliable than they are today. This goes for most consumer products. That doesn't mean there aren't problems today that should be addressed, but the golden times of the past are largely imaginary.


Well luckily we don't have to go on vibes and there's data that shows modern cars last longer than older ones, on average.


This is a frequent trope employed in places with comically inept snow preparedness - like the Pacific Northwest - ignoring the existence of automatic carwashes. With how many persistently dirty Subaru Outbacks I've seen on the 5 I question if they know this alien technology exists.


Is there a point to wash the car if you are going to spray salt on it immediately after?


Why stop there? Why do we wash cars or vacuum floors at all if they will get dirty again?

Monthly car wash subscriptions are pretty popular in winter climates.

Corrosion takes time. It doesn't bore holes into metal on contact. It's road salt not the blood from Alien.


It's not the salt alone as far as I understand. It's the salt, the moisture, the dirt, the micro damages/cracks, temperature changes all working together to foster starting points for corrosion on surfaces or crevices. Leaving all this on does give it time to work. Regular washing dies remove some of the culprits (salt, dirt,...) thus reducing the attack vector on the surface. Wax might even add some protection. (I read the "time is not the issue" comment but am not sure how to understand it, surely time plays some role in it, else the corrosion should start immediately at contact with salt?)


Many corrosion models are not time-variant. Eg Eyring and Arrhenius models


Would be good to elaborate and not let us hang out in the salt. ... Please


To elaborate, the failure rate does not change with time, but with some other stressor like temperature. The failure distribution may be modeled as a random process, instead of a time-based one. An exponential failure distribution is an example of a time-invariant process, while a Weibull or Gamma distribution would be time-variant, because the failure rate changes with the age of the item.


I misinterpreted the equations of those models based on a paper that stated some corrosion models use a random, rather than time variant process.


Tacking doesn't work without water and a keel


Won't the crafts relative motion (relative to desired travel) provide the same effective force as the water+keel?


Got sources on your claims? All the sources for the second one, that I can find, say methanol and ethanol can be separated by fractional distillation, that it is isopropyl and ethanol that is troublesome due to their close boiling points. See for instance this patent https://patents.google.com/patent/US4013521A/en on purifying methanol


https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.php/Methanol explains it well with links to sources

There are lots of incorrect sources on the internet concerning this. It’s not like there’s any organization trying to dispel the myth, and the same false claims get repeated over and over.


For what workload?


Most injection systems are rated for 20% bio aka b20 without voiding the warrantee. Bio beyond that doesn't have enough lubrication so you have to supplement it with a splash of something like 2-stroke oil. It can run for a long time like that without hurting the pump but manufacturers don't support it. Some gas stations sell b20. If you're talking straight veg you need a certain type of injection system for reliability, and even there you're decreasing the life of the pump. Old mechanical pumps work great, first gen cummins, vw 1.6, mercedes om617 machines can run on straight heated veg for a long time with no issues. Electronically controlled mechanical systems like the vw 1.9 tdi can run on it too but might be a bit more finicky about what you're injecting.

Assuming you want to make your own bio you'd have to set up a transesterification process where you convert the trans fats out of the oil, that process uses lye so it needs a decent container and is best automated. If you're trying to recover the solvent, which is probably methanol, you'd need a still as well, and decent ventilation. Fully automated with raspi or arduino components is a couple grand or more, prefab units run something like 10k.

If rather than bio you're talking straight grease, it is cheaper to clean but more expensive to set up the car. You'd need a second fuel tank, preferably heated depending on climate, some solenoid valves, and a heated fuel filter. And a pile of hoses and wires to connect it all. Maybe a grand or so to set it up depending on driving conditions, kits run 1-2, some are better designed than others.

Either way you'd also want some big drums for holding tanks at home where you can let the fluid layers separate and a pump to move them around. Most car washes give away polyethylene 50gal barrels.

Most expensive thing in my opinion, is your time and the cost of the oil. You can get something like 5-50gal per week per restaurant, tho most overuse the oil. Best places don't cook meats in there at all. Chain and large restaurants want a schedule. Cost of the oil varies, used to be paid to take it, somewhere around 2010 that inverted and now you pay for the oil.


I would have expected it to be the takeoff making all the noise. 105db at takeoff but 144db when the booster returns is what, almost 10,000 times louder at peak? I wonder what will have to be done to mitigate it, take more fuel up and slow down earlier?


Take-off makes a lot of noise, but the noise doesn't reach the observer on the ground the same way.

https://youtu.be/liKe0kg3agY?t=582


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