I highly recommend Top-Bar Beekeeping: Organic Practices for Honeybee Health, by Les Crowder.
My bees are treatment-free and going strong, and we'll be converting all of our Langstroth hives to top-bar hives this coming Spring.
Basically, honeybee hives with mite treatment have high failure rates, and honeybee hives with no chemical treatments do better when the bees have been bred for mite resistance, so do the latter.
As for top-bar hives vs. Langstroth, it's nigh impossible to keep from killing bees with Langstroth hives every time you get into them, and that's what makes them sting. Besides wanting a better relationship with the bees, it feels real bad to kill any, so why do it? Langstroth hives are only advantageous for large-scale commercial beekeeping (because the "supers" stack, and because the frames fit neatly in honey extractors), but in every other way Langstroth hives are just awful.
I am new to beekeeping this year and just trying to build my colonies up from the nucs I received. I have not done mite checks as I don’t want to kill a cup of bees every few weeks just to do the check, and a shocking number of beekeepers I’ve met have mentioned that they lost entire colonies as soon as they treated for mites. I desperately want to be treatment-free - if I pick up that book would the lessons be applicable if I stuck with Langstroth hive bodies?
Whilst not as effective as an alcohol wash, a sugar shake will show you some number of varroa, without killing (m)any bees. At the very least it'll show you if you've got lots of mites in your hive, but might report a false negative at low numbers.
I've done more sugar shakes than alcohol tests. Besides powdered sugar being a mite test, it's also a mite treatment because a) it triggers hygienic behavior in the bees and that helps them get rid of mites, and b) it makes it harder for mites to hold on to the bees.
Starting from nucs is hard work. I also wouldn't bother testing for mites because killing a few hundred bees from a very weak colony is not really a good idea. Also, be very careful not to expose bees -especially young nurse bees, which don't fly yet- to the hot summer Sun -- I once killed hundreds more bees that way than I'd needed to for a mite test.
> I desperately want to be treatment-free - if I pick up that book would the lessons be applicable if I stuck with Langstroth hive bodies?
My bees are treatment-free and going strong, and we'll be converting all of our Langstroth hives to top-bar hives this coming Spring.
Basically, honeybee hives with mite treatment have high failure rates, and honeybee hives with no chemical treatments do better when the bees have been bred for mite resistance, so do the latter.
As for top-bar hives vs. Langstroth, it's nigh impossible to keep from killing bees with Langstroth hives every time you get into them, and that's what makes them sting. Besides wanting a better relationship with the bees, it feels real bad to kill any, so why do it? Langstroth hives are only advantageous for large-scale commercial beekeeping (because the "supers" stack, and because the frames fit neatly in honey extractors), but in every other way Langstroth hives are just awful.