Torque specs only apply to clean and clear threads that are free of corrosion and grease -- unless otherwise-specified.
Threads that are this way do not get stuck half-way.
If the threads are already boogered up for whatever reason, then the torque specification is already wrong: The threads aren't clean, clear, and free of corrosion and grease. This can result in under-tensioned fasteners when using a torque wrench as a guide, since boogered threads (rather obviously) can present an impingement that allows a torque wrench to click off before proper tension is reached.
However, grease is not a magical antidote to this condition.
If the threads (boogered or not) are greased, then the torque spec is also wrong: Greased threads are also not clean and clear, and free of corrosion and grease. This can result in over-tensioned fasteners when using a torque wrench as a guide, since grease is (rather obviously) a lubricant -- allowing things to slide more-freely in a way that doesn't allow a torque wrench to click off until somewhere beyond ideal tension.
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So what do, then, as a home-gamer with a bicycle or maybe a car in the rust belt (but never an aircraft) full of dissimilar metals that are constantly rotting?
You could perhaps kit up to do the Junker test such as in DIN 65151, and make a study of how different greases affects things. You can even make a career out of publishing your studies.
Or: Just make sure the threads are clean, clear, and dry, and then assemble with an anti-seize paste which does not have lubricating qualities that affect final tension yield. (Permatex makes some, as do others.)
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(And in aircraft, always do what the engineers say. If the engineers are wrong, then: Stop doing whatever it is that you're doing, and consult them.)
Threads that are this way do not get stuck half-way.
If the threads are already boogered up for whatever reason, then the torque specification is already wrong: The threads aren't clean, clear, and free of corrosion and grease. This can result in under-tensioned fasteners when using a torque wrench as a guide, since boogered threads (rather obviously) can present an impingement that allows a torque wrench to click off before proper tension is reached.
However, grease is not a magical antidote to this condition.
If the threads (boogered or not) are greased, then the torque spec is also wrong: Greased threads are also not clean and clear, and free of corrosion and grease. This can result in over-tensioned fasteners when using a torque wrench as a guide, since grease is (rather obviously) a lubricant -- allowing things to slide more-freely in a way that doesn't allow a torque wrench to click off until somewhere beyond ideal tension.
---
So what do, then, as a home-gamer with a bicycle or maybe a car in the rust belt (but never an aircraft) full of dissimilar metals that are constantly rotting?
You could perhaps kit up to do the Junker test such as in DIN 65151, and make a study of how different greases affects things. You can even make a career out of publishing your studies.
Or: Just make sure the threads are clean, clear, and dry, and then assemble with an anti-seize paste which does not have lubricating qualities that affect final tension yield. (Permatex makes some, as do others.)
---
(And in aircraft, always do what the engineers say. If the engineers are wrong, then: Stop doing whatever it is that you're doing, and consult them.)